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I have tried this in a simulated set up and it does function as expected although getting the extra crab into place is a little fiddly. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I've done the majority of my climbing for the last 5 years I guess now with a Mega Jul, including lots of abseiling. Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. It's light, it offers loads of grip for secure belaying, and it works smoothly on a range of rope diameters - what's not to like? In manual mode though it works perfectly as any guide mode device would do and is probably slightly better than using the device set up for conventional brake assist if the fixed belay is high. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. Once again this is very straightforward and operation is just like most standard twin rope belay devices. This makes paying out a two-handed procedure since you have to use the thumb loop to hold the back of the device upright to allow free feed of the rope. With the other hand, the belayer pulls slack through the device. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. In this case you usually only take the rope in and having it on brake assist is actually a bonus, especially if your following climber needs a tight rope since you can do this easily without having to sustain tension with your brake hand. All rights reserved. Overall for trad climbing the Giga Jul in manual mode is as efficient as any device on the market. We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Visually the Giga Jul is similar in size, or slightly bigger, to a lot of guide plates that are now available - but with a larger thumb loop. In September Black Diamond and Visit Innsbruck teamed up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the World Youth Championships. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. All of the testers who used this device said that they agreed it was less jerky and "grabby" than the similar Mega Jul, which is a good thing. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. The first bi-directional belay device with a backup. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. It is great to see Edelrid coming up with new devices that are not just fancy gizmos with a new feature or two that you may or may not appreciate, but real innovative developments that actually make climbing easier and safer. We tried it out and discovered that guide mode only works in manual mode - the rope totally locks in brake assist mode. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. Top Rope Belay . In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - image-1600550567017.JPG - image-1600550603040.JPG. While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Lowering. When you use the link from this page to make a purchase, I may receive a small commission to support this website, and you may receive a great bargain – Full Disclosure. Oct 17, 2018 ... Post a Reply to "Edelrid Giga Jul" Log In to Reply. The Click Up+ is an updated version of the popular Click Up. Name: Mega Jul Sport … The catch and bit provided by the Giga Jul in assisted braking mode is very effective at stopping the rope firmly in place, and holding it there as the climber rests. Once in manual mode you basically have a standard belay device similar to many on the market. Will we love the update as much as we loved the original? That said, if paired with ropes that are fresh and slippery, it may be possible for a little bit of rope to slip through the device, simply requiring you to grip a little firmer. Recommended use: Alpine Climbing, Sport Climbing Suitable for: men, women Construction: Belay, Rappel Devices ; tube, belay device ; suitable for rope type: single rope, half rope, twin rope ; suitable for rope diameters: 7.8 – 10.0 mm ; Features: with stand mount Weight: 100 g Awards: tested by Bergzeit . Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Review. Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. M (manual) at the top, A (assist) at the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. Review Testing was done over two days of climbing using a Petzl Attache carabiner and the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.6mm rope. The Giga Jul costs roughly the same as other passive assist belay devices, many of which do not allow for two ropes and are not ideal for multi-pitching. Operation on the 9.8mm rope was smooth and it locked perfectly. GearLab is reader-supported. Again this too has a right way and a wrong way indicated although it is far less crucial when in manual mode since it works pretty well either way, it is just that there are better braking grooves when threaded correctly. Well, for us, it fills a hole left in the range by the assisted-braking only policy adopted by Edelrid, and that is an assisted braking device with a conventional belay option built in. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. It can also be hung off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode. The Edelrid HMS Strike is a strong keylock screwgate carabiner with a compact body and low weight. It is designed to be used with ropes in the range of 7.1mm-10mm and using fatter, thicker ropes can become problematic in assisted braking mode, as the angles are no longer correct to provide the assist, allowing for some rope slippage. Try and pull the rope through the device without holding the trailing rope and it will pretty much lock. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. Let us know! This doesn't mean that you can belay without your brake hand but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is. Public discussion This is a public discussion in World. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. We have used it for sport climbing, trad climbing and abseiling, so those are the main areas we will focus on here. Fast despatch as standard, next day delivery available. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example. The Micro Jul, designed for twin or half ropes from 6.9mm to 8mm, is super light (2.1 oz.) We haven't used it much in the alpine guide mode which isn't a common use in the UK - although we will look at that briefly in this review. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. On our independent scale the Giga Jul weighted 4.3 ounces, which is pretty light, but a fair bit heavier than comparable devices we compared it against. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. The most versatile ever belay device. While it takes a few pitches to learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this technique becomes pretty simple. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. It is also possible to double rope trad climb with the Giga Jul in brake assist mode. The last thing you want is a rope locking when you don't want it to. I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. As I've already implied, one of the main problems with brake assist belay devices is that you don't always want brake assist. The switch between modes is simple - just slide the moveable bar on the device from one end to the other indicated by text and arrows on the device. I doubt you would ever use it on a single rope much thinner than this and the 7.1mm rating is for double rope use. You could abseil in brake assist mode, however it becomes very stiff and difficult to feed the rope through especially if you have a lot of rope weight dangling below. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. If you need to take in the rope if your leader is retreating, or has taken in too much slack for a clip, then you have to release the thumb loop to take in. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. This is slightly tricky to get used to. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. There is a right way to thread the device depending on which mode you are in. While you can belay, lower, or rappel in either assisted or manual modes, we most often found ourselves lead belaying in assisted mode, belaying the second using the auto-block, and rappelling in manual with a prussik backup. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Because you have the device the other way up, the thumb loop is held out of the way upwards and two grooves come into play at the lower end of the device to aid with braking. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. It is slightly complex to use initially but you quickly get used to it with a little practice. A pair of 60m Flycatchers weighs just over 9 lbs.—about the same as one 10mm. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. This just illustrates the versatility of the device. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. Its increased durability also adds to the value. A Hybrid mix of aluminium and steel keeps the Giga Jul light and robust. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★ The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. The most versatile ever belay device. Everyone we know belays the second on multi-pitches using auto-block, so we can't imagine a functional multi-pitch device that doesn't allow this usage. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and other areas prone to wear are made from robust steel. The Giga Jul is a brilliant and versatile device. The Giga Jul is the latest in Edelrid’s assisted braking device range. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The added toggle switch adds a little bit of weight, but the main difference is in the stainless steel inserts in high wear areas, that ensure a longer life span for the Giga Jul. By pushing up and out with the thumb, the device has enough room to allow slack to pass through, which is fed to the climber by being yanked out the top. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. Lowering off is achieved by locking the rope with the braking hand through the thumb loop and then tilting that gently upwards to release the grip tension. In manual mode, the device functions just like a standard tube and has some added friction grooves that help you catch and hold a falling climber. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can retain better control with your braking hand. This is despite devices like the Alpine Up from Climbing Technology and the earlier Mega Jul version being on the market for several years. These fed well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, including in brake assist mode. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. The Giga Jul addressed these problems by being a bit bigger and allowing more space for ropes to run with slightly less friction and is, therefore, easier to use. It's also functional in guide mode for direct belaying fom an anchor, making it great for alpine and multi-pitch use with double/twin ropes. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. So it looks like they're fixed the problem with the megajul that you need to re-feed the ropes to switch between manual and guide mode - great. Those who prefer the camming style brake assist of the GriGri, CAMP Matik, Mad Rock Lifeguard, Edelrid Eddy etc would need to change their belay style since it is a different action. Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. Trad Climbing with Double Ropes We used it on a 9.8mm Sterling Velocity single rope, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry. Of note is that the slider bar must be slid into manual mode for this usage, and the thumb loop points toward the wall, which is the opposite of the orientation used by the Mega Jul, but is ultimately more intuitive. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Using with an Edelrid Strike. However, owing to the complex nature of the different modes, this is not totally straightforward to get right and takes a bit of getting used to. The Revo makes belaying simple, safe and more intuitive. The 6.9mm Flycatcher rope—you read that diameter right—is so thin that Edelrid had to invent a new belay device to handle it: the Micro Jul. For this reason you are rarely likely to use it when belaying a leader; however bringing up a second is a different matter. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prussik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Finally, the slider bar can be flipped to the opposite side and the device can be used in brake assist mode, for an easier and more secure catch and hold when belaying either a leader or top-roper. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. This is particularly the case in trad climbing where having flexible control of the ropes independent of each other, and the ability to take in and pay out rapidly as your leader needs it, is crucial. James Thomson started this discussion 8 weeks ago. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Not a huge problem but there is a gap then as you slip your hand back up the rope into the thumb position. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. We got to use the giga jul when belaying a trad leader in assisted mode, a top rope climber in assisted mode (lower as well), belaying a second from above, and lowering a second from above. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. Got feedback? Reproduction without permission is prohibited. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. The most versatile ever belay device. For trad climbing with double ropes you are usually going to have it in manual mode. As the owner of this website, I tracked down special deals for some products or services mentioned herein. © UKClimbing Limited. In the Alps though it is more common. To use in assisted brake mode the slider is moved to the 'top' of the plate, while the thumb loop allows for smooth playing out when belaying a leader. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. In both manual and assisted brake mode the device performed as expected. The ultimate "bite" depends on the rope and carabiner you pair the Giga Jul with. Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. We got our hands on the Giga Jul late in 2018 and have been using it since, both indoors and out. In terms of function, we found that while there is less friction that the belayer must overcome than with the Mega Jul, there is still a whole lot more than with active assist belay devices. We used it exclusively on a pair of 8.5mm Beal Opera ropes for double rope climbing. This is well illustrated on the device itself. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show. Overall, the Mega Jul is a cleverly designed belay device that does things that similar looking devices do not, whilst offering more security. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good as any standard tuber-style belay device on the market. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. The only circumstances you might do this is if you were stripping a pitch of gear or getting in position for some photography but these are advanced techniques that would need some practice. Basic sport climbing holding position with the thumb in the thumb loop, Fast feed position with the thumb pulling upwards on the thumb loop, Locked for fall or lowering is natural with the hand already in position through the thumb loop, Alternative method for lowering keeping the brake hand lower and tilting the device with your other hand to give better control, Double rope use in locked position with the thumb loop upwards and out of the way, Independent feed of the ropes for technical belaying while trad climbing. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. It is comparable to the Salewa Ergo, Mammut Smart, Black Diamond ATC Pilot type of device but not quite as smooth as the Climbing Technology Click-up. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. The Giga Jul claims to work on ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm. As mentioned in the review, we didn't really test it that much in guide mode mainly because I haven't really found any need of guide mode in the climbing I have been doing. With a bit of practice this can be relatively easy but perhaps not as smooth as some single rope brake assist devices on the market. The Edelrid Giga Jul is an innovative and increadibly versatile belay device. Beal ORIENT EXPRESS is a unidirectional screw locking karabiner designed for use with belay plates where the ropes pass through the karabiner. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport works much like a regular tube device, except it has an elongated wire loop with an ergonomic section "thumb hook". The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. For the most part, you would only ever abseil in manual mode. Buy Edelrid - Giga Jul now at Dick's Climbing. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. The hole seen here at the bottom of the device is for clipping a carabiner nose to in order to use it as a lever arm when lowering or rappelling in assist mode or auto-block mode. So overall for sport climbing, operation is similar to a lot of devices on the market that give brake assist based on trapping the rope between the crab and the device. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a smart little belay device from Edelrid that can be used as an assisted braking device or a standard one at the flick of a lever. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. How can we improve GearLab? Material on GearLab is copyrighted. We only recommend using a round stock carabiner with this device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The most versatile ever belay device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Lowering a climber in assist mode requires keeping upward pressure on the thumb loop, or using a separate carabiner threaded through the release hole on the back for leverage, and takes a bit of effort and is also fairly jerky. Outside of a guided scenario it is not a common technique in the UK since it usually requires a high fixed belay which are rare in UK trad and there is relatively little UK multi-pitch sport. The idea of guide mode is that it turns a conventional belay device into a brake assist device for bringing up climbers following a pitch - like a 'guide' would do - however the Giga Jul already has a brake assist mode so is it a slightly superfluous function of the device? So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? Thanks to a sliding mechanism the Giga Jul can be switched between regular and assisted braking mode. This poses the question - what happens if you thread it the wrong way when in brake assist mode? This operates in the same way as the Mega Jul. Rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it. Whether you are sport climbing, trad climbing, abseiling or using it as a guide plate, it needs to be used in different ways - but it is designed to work well for all of them. A life outdoors is a life well lived. Abseil You can also use a carabiner as a lever arm clipped into the small eye hole on the back to aid with this process, not shown in this photo. In assisted braking mode, the rope is pinched between the carabiner and the device in much the same manner as almost every other passive assisted device. However, how binary is the locking in guide mode when you need to release the rope - is it like most other guide mode belay devices in being either locked or not, or can you do a more gradual release like the DMM Pivot? Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. The design is also clever in that it ensures that you do always have your brake hand on the rope in the correct position. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, An incredibly versatile device that allows for every style of belay you would need on a multi-pitch climb. Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. On the thinner 8.5mm when used as a single, there was a little slippage when locking but nothing to raise concern. Giga Jul Technical Specifications: Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Assisted braking belay devices help catch a leader fall by doing some of the braking work for you. It is the versatility of this device that is its main appeal. The Edelrid Giga Jul belay device, MSRP: $50 Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. This is where you clip the device direct to a belay using the extra loop at the top of the device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. The Giga Jul has a specific metal carabiner loop so that it can be clipped directly to the anchor for belaying up a second in auto-block mode. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. I can't comment on whether this is similar to the DMM Pivot since I haven't got one of those to try. Being keen trad climbers we were keen to try this device out after first encountering it at the summer trade show of 2018 - you can see the film below. All trademarks property of their respective owners The main difference is the movable bar in the twin rope slots which enables you to switch between the two modes. So whilst brake assist devices have virtually taken over for most single rope sport climbing scenarios, hardly anyone uses them for trad climbing. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. Well it still functions but it doesn't really offer any brake assist and taking in the rope is awkward since taking in is now where the brake assist is being applied. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. VIDEO from Weigh My Rack: Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while. I discussed it with Edelrid though and they did comment that it locks up as most guide plates do and needs an extra crab to leverage the release. I guess there must be a lot of people at the Verdon who don't know what they're doing then which sounds kinda of terrifying! So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Review ; Giga Jul Belay Device. There was nothing noticeably better or worse about using this device compared to say a Black Diamond ATC or a Mammut Smart. If you are handling the device at waist level or lower then you would probably want to use a conventional brake assist mode direct from your harness. ProView – Edelrid Giga Jul February 17, 2020 Climbing, ProView Gear Reviews Patrick Betts I used the Giga Jul over the last two months while guiding six days a week: from climbing to canyoneering, single pitch, multi-pitch and hundreds of meters of rappelling; this device hung on my harness and proved itself versatile and robust. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The Edelrid Giga Jul is a super versatile belay device that offers both a standard tuber device and an assisted braking device in one. In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. An alternative method is to lower your braking hand on the trailing rope and then use your other upper hand to tip the device up to release. The most versatile ever belay device according to Edelrid. The device has two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes, and ensuring that you can rappel double ropes. For more info on how to use it see edelrid.de. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. In the brake assist mode, the large thumb loop is required for rope feed and braking for lowering. See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop. Luckily, there are the standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the device to denote which way to load it properly. Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/belays/edelrid_mega_jul-6739. With an i ntelligent hybrid design, the Edelrid Giga Jul can either be used in guide mode or assisted guide mode, which offers a brake boost for catching falls. It is slightly bigger than some other devices and has the thumb loop which is redundant in the manual mode. Most usually this will be with the device in brake assist mode. Edelrid Mega Jul Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. The only difficulty with this is subtle manipulation of the ropes independent of each other - so taking in with one rope and paying out with the other at the same time is almost impossible. Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. The Giga Jul works perfectly well for sport climbing in manual mode as well, which you might choose on long pitches to reduce drag to your leader, or for a particular redpoint where super fast rope feed was required for certain gripper-clips. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. In manual mode, again, it … If there's a big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. You can ab the normal way with a prussik if you want but the locking mode with an additional krab as a handle works great. These other two devices haven't been widely adopted in UK trad for different reasons so there is a gap here for something that gives the versatility of a manual belay device, with the option to have assisted brake mode if required, while still being a reasonable size and weight on your harness. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. We also found that if we belayed with a carabiner that wasn't round, such as the I-beam stock Black Diamond Vaporlock Magnetron, there was way more friction and rope didn't pay out smoothly at all, so be sure to pair it with a round stock pear-shaped HMS carabiner. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device. It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega Jul works rather well and is particularly versatile. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Guide mode On stiff and furry indoor wall ropes it is sluggish and difficult to use but, let's face it, everything is! The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Three belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevity, Slightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay technique. The different modes give you plenty of options depending on the circumstances and this could be the one-stop-shop single belay device for all types of climbing you do from sport, through multi-pitch trad, to alpine. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. Sport Climbing with a Single Rope There is a right and a wrong way to thread the device but, as long as you are in manual mode, then both will work safely. Started: 8 weeks ago on Sat 19th Sep 2020 World . The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. When the leader falls, the device will lock the rope, and the belayer must use the thumb hook to lever up the device, freeing the rope. As part of the REI Co-op family, we're dedicated to making websites and mobile apps that help outdoor enthusiasts connect, share information and get out into the places they love to play. Check the video for a full explanation of how it works . Rope diameter: 7.1 - 10mm

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